You won't see the real Mongolia by staying in its Soviet-built capital - you have to get out into the countryside. Elstei Ger Camp offers a super location away from the city - it's surrounded by rewarding countryside for walking or relaxing all around, with a choice of different landscapes according to which direction you set off.

Gers are Mongolia's traditional wooden-framed tents - insulated with a thick layer of camel- or horse-hair felt, then covered with a waterproof decorated canvas outer. Inside the traditional accommodation is far from spartan - there are real beds (traditional Mongolian ones), and the ever-present solid-fuel hearth at the ger's physical and spiritual centre. All the accommodation at Elstei is in these gers, with space for 3-5 people in each.

Walk, hike, or just relax and contemplate the enormity and emptiness of the Mongolian Steppes? There are also some activities available - including traditional Mongolian sports like wrestling or archery. If you want to ride the Steppes, nomads call by the camp with horses - you settle-up with them afterwards, it helps their finances a bit. If a horse isn't your thing - how about a camel?

Elstei's cafe serves both traditional Mongolian style meals (ie mutton), or a European-style alternative - there are veggie options too. Warm showers and “conventional” toilets in summer - but when the temperature drops below freezing, there's a drop-toilet alternative.

Not many holidays give you the chance to try out a whole new way of life - this holiday does.